Five dollar haircut in the catfish capital of the world

Wednesday, 27 March 2013


"See this diner, Sonics?", said Lori, giving me an improvised tour of her hometown from the pickup. "We used to sneak out of school and go there to smoke cigarettes. The town truant officer would drive past and look through the window at all the booths. We'd see him coming a mile off and just duck under the table. He never caught us."

On Memphis Soul, Tabernacle preachin' and the evil Dr Tulsa

Tuesday, 19 March 2013


After a 6-week stay on a farm, I hit the ground running in Memphis, starting with a visit to the Stax Records museum. The record company, which became insolvent and closed in 1975, provided an oasis of racial harmony in segregated 60's Memphis, and produced some of the world's finest soul music. Otis Redding, Sam & Dave (and local talents such as Issac Hayes and Booker T) were amongst the stars that helped Stax soundtrack black America's dignified response to the cancerous bigotry of the day.